San Cristobal de las Casas

Woke up this morning earlier than I expected after such a long day of travel.  I woke up 5 minutes before the alarm was set to go off, as I usually do when I am excited. I went for a walk at 8 around the zocalo (town square) just a few people were there some younger boys shining shoes, older men just sitting in silence, and other just passing through. The market  was so full of color, fruit of many varieties, clothing and paint. Mexico is so vivid. On the other end of the market was meat where they literally cut whole cows right there in the morning to put out for the day.  We stopped into a bakery and had a delicious Mexican breakfast before catching the bus and heading off  to San Cristobal de las Casas. I rode with Gary, our professor who is quite familiar with the area as he has been coming here for years. I got caught up with the events of San Cristobal, particularly around the death of Bishop Samuel Ruiz.  After getting caught up I fell asleep and when I woke up I was half way up a mountain. On one side, fields and fields of corn on the up slope of the hill and on the other an amazing view of the mountains partially submerged in the clouds.  

We are incredibly lucky to be arriving on this day.  The funeral is being held for the Bishop Samuel Ruiz aka Tatike. He was an amazing and incredibly influential bishop in the community. He is an icon in the area and though very controversial, well respected by all. He became the mediator between the Zapatista community and the Mexican government. He brought both to the table and was instrumental in many peace agreements just as the San Andres Accords.

We checked in and got briefed prior to going to the zocoalo to see some of the funeral, and were cautioned about camera use.  Trust your instincts.  After words, I sat on the stage in front of the Cathedral that was set up to address the community for the funeral.  I looked out into the same zocalo where people had been demoralized and exploited but also have stood up been inspired and empowered to defend their right and keep fighting.  I wondered how people come to these positions in life and how do people like the Bishop have these gifts or fall in to these rolls. Is it coincidence or are these people placed there by some other force when in a time of need. It was clear that he had impacted many if not all of the community here.  He listened to and mediated for the people and as echoed in a testimony passed around his funeral, who is going to listen to them now?

This is the most impoverished area of Mexico. We are met frequently with indigenous people selling the goods to tourists bracelets, shawls, Zapatista dolls etc.   My regretful decline for their goods was met more with a smile or laugh at my weak attempts at Spanish. Although they are impoverished, the sense of desperation is not nearly the same as other places I have experiences.  I wonder why and guess it must have something to do with their sense of community here.  There is not nearly the same evidence of the haves and the have-nots as in other areas. I cant wait to learn more about their communities.